Q: We are at the end of your residency at Bose Pacia’s Transparent Studio program. Did working in this space open up new possibilities or directions for your work?
A: The residency has been a great opportunity to explore new mediums as well as combine different elements of my existing practice. The gift of space in this residency enabled me to establish relationships between the works while developing them further. In this residency I experimented with new materials, taking the imagery and inspiration from my past works to create new patterns.
Working with paper as a sculptural material, rather than a drawing medium was very exciting — Sanding and carving it.
Incorporating high fashion clothing and transforming them into sculptures is an exciting new direction for me and there are many projects that I envisioned and was excited to work on. The transparent quality of the space helped me to see many things through and through.
Q: The transformative or revelatory function of clothing has emerged as a powerful social theme in some of the new work produced during the residency. The process of obscuring and revealing at the same time is evident, especially in your dresses which take on sculptural dimensions.
A: The use of fabric in my previous practice has been different from what I explored this time, as I had been taking usually worn-out clothes and scraps of fabric and transforming them to a point where it completely transforms into something new, but keeping the integrity of the form of the dress.
There are several things I was interested in while exploring new dimensions of designer textiles. Constant change is very inspiring. I wanted to see different functions of clothing as a sculptural form, such as appropriating clothing as wearable pieces. I took some brand new clothes to transform and examine the act of dressing up as a way to explore the wearer’s psychology. By creating the outer I am interested in depicting the inside. Seeing the act of dressing as a window into the wearer’s psyche.
The other interesting concept behind this project was to view the clothes as a space that the body occupies similar to the way architectural structures occupy spaces. I find it interesting to relate similarities between these structures and their function. Buildings are structures occupying spaces where people live and… leave, whereas in the structure of body that occupies space, memories live and perhaps never leave.
Q: What are you unveiling in these series of dresses?
A: Basically these projects were based on incorporating designer clothing as the material for sculpture. By buying and appropriating it I wanted to maintain the integrity of the form while transforming it. I cut my coat (of a famous fashion brand) while leaving the space inside as I was interested in highlighting a space that body occupies by seeing through the absence of the body. The idea of cutting my favorite coat was based on my interest in exploring how the body occupies the space associated with structures of bones and flesh. Other behaviors and attitudes I wanted to explore with this work are the viewers and my own thoughts, coping mechanisms, competitions, loves, hates, struggles, confrontations, successes, failures, and so on. There has been a element of curiosity and surprise behind the creation and exploration of each work. I sew a cast of my torso inside so it will stay in shape and not collapse.
Q: A sequin-studded dress embellished with faucets from Pakistan.
A: I wanted to explore the function of two materials and see it as one form. I purchased this dress in my size from a famous brand store. Each cm of the dress is covered with sequins and beads with thin straps. This beautifully and meticulously decorated metallic quality made me think of combining glittering faucets and brass pots. I bought inexpensive faucets in Pakistan and attached it to a brand name dress bought from one of New York’s most famous and expensive stores, which also addresses the troubled collaboration between two countries.
There are apparent materialistic similarities between the two objects, such as the function of the faucets as a source of fulfillment and the function of the dress as a controlling source of beauty. I had to construct an armature or structure inside to attach the faucets to the dress as the dress is not strong and stiff enough to hold the weight of the faucets.
Q: A dress made of old t-shirts stitched together with doll house windows.
A: I had built it earlier as a sculptural form with a complex armature inside full of wires and wire mesh sewn with fabric strips. When I decided to wear it I had to cut the inside armature to make it wearable , but the moment I cut the complex armature inside, the whole form collapsed just as a building without having a structure. I had to stitch it vertically with vertical supports in it.
Q: Crows are a familiar and beloved symbol in your work. They travel with you and appear in different guises in groups or as solitary figures and relics. Crows, which are a universal symbol in the mythology and folklore of South Asia, are also a very personal symbol for you. How do you synthesize the familiar with the conceptual in new situations. Do these forms take on new meanings?
A: I feel that in each show they come and take over spaces in my exhibition.
Crows are mythological creatures, whether these are clipped winged ravens in the Tower of London, or in South Asia, as the harbinger. They are also associated with bringing knowledge, shape-shifting, eloquence, prophecy, skill, knowledge, cunning and trickery. Their unique ability to outwit most birds, animals, and even humans at times is not a mythology….
My experiences with crows is extensive. I found them from myths around the world. I feel they are other beings who felt it better to rule in hell than serve in heaven. Ancient chiefs tell us that a crow simultaneously sees three fates—the past, present and future.
Taking a new meaning, their omnipresence in the urban or rural landscape has always made me think of them as witness, a constant observant, or carrier of the knowledge of the past. Punjabi literature contains lots of legends and songs about crows as messengers who signal arrival of guests. They are also companions.
A famous song that addresses the crow:
Thou dost devour mine body
eat away my flesh
but don’t eat the vacant eyes
that are waiting to see their love
Q: Philosophy, poetry and literature figure prominently in your aesthetics. Who are your influences?
A: The unavoidable circumstances or unfortunate events in life, their acceptance and ability to confront and overcome has been an inspiration for what I have been creating.
I treat my materials as living beings, finding perfect place for them, by just putting even the smallest content in the right space. It is very important for me to consider every detail of my work, for the right combination makes it lyrical- round forms, soft edges.
The process of arranging materials in a certain way, to let the material speak is only possible when you do not force your intentions, rather you know comfortable it would be to flesh out its characteristics.
I see folk toys carrying all the warmth of human touch by its maker. I see rhythms created by repetition of form and shapes in Islamic and Eastern art. Repetition of notes with subtle differences in Indian classical music and mystical Sufi Punjabi poetry are all my inspirations.
All men’s hearts are gems, to distress them is by no means good:
if thou desire the Beloved, distress no one’s heart.




















